Why ‘fragrance’ is not transparent

When you see the word ‘Parfum’ or ‘Fragrance’ on a cosmetic label, you’re looking at one of the biggest loopholes in ingredient transparency. That single term can represent a proprietary blend of anywhere from 10 to 200+ individual chemical compounds — none of which have to be individually disclosed.

This exemption exists because fragrance formulations are considered trade secrets. Perfumers and brands argue that disclosing the exact blend would allow competitors to copy their signature scents. While there’s commercial logic to this, it means consumers have no way of knowing exactly what they’re applying to their skin.

The problem goes beyond simple secrecy. Research has identified numerous fragrance chemicals as potential endocrine disruptors, allergens, or sensitisers. Synthetic musks like galaxolide and tonalide, for example, have been detected in human breast milk and blood, and some studies link them to hormonal interference. Phthalates — particularly diethyl phthalate (DEP) — are commonly used as fragrance carriers and are associated with reproductive and developmental effects.

The EU has taken steps to address this. Under the Cosmetics Regulation (EC 1223/2009), 26 fragrance allergens must be individually listed on the label if they exceed 10 ppm in leave-on products or 100 ppm in rinse-off products. In 2023, the European Commission expanded this list to over 80 allergens, with the new rules phasing in by 2026–2028.

However, allergen labelling still doesn’t cover the full picture. Many fragrance chemicals that aren’t classified as allergens — but may still have endocrine-disrupting or sensitising properties — remain hidden behind the ‘Parfum’ umbrella. The International Fragrance Association (IFRA) maintains a list of around 3,000 materials used in fragrances, but compliance with their standards is voluntary and self-regulated.

What can you do? Look for products labelled ‘fragrance-free’ (not ‘unscented’ — unscented products may still contain masking fragrances). Choose brands that voluntarily disclose their fragrance ingredients. And use EDScan to flag products that list ‘Parfum’ so you can make an informed choice about whether you’re comfortable with that level of uncertainty.